Training for Rock Climbing

[Huffman]

Hey guys,

I've recently become quite fond of rock climbing. But I feel that I lack the strength to do difficult routes.
Now what kinds of exercises would you say are good for building up strength?

As in Hands/Fingers, Upper back, ...? What would you recommend?

 

[TheHoff]

masterbating bulds good strength in your forearms...but you are better doing compound exercise rather than isolation exercies

 

[Mr.Positive]

The best training for rock climbing is....rock climbing!!

I'm serious, as a former climber myself. However, there's some really good exercise that you can do to help.

For climbing you need extremely strong grip strength, forearms, back and legs. The best climbers uses their legs the most.

Do hand-grip exercises, like those ones you grip in your palms and squeeze, and definitely do pull-ups. I once saw an expert climber doing pull-ups with one finger on the bar. One-fingered pull-ups, simply amazing. That should be your goal.

But..the real training is simply to keep climbing. Your body will adapt eventually the more you climb. You find yourself doing more and more difficult routes.

If you go to a gym and do not have someone to belay you, you can use the bouldering wall, ie not be roped in. You don't need a partner to train.

It's addicting and a great workout, have fun.

 

[Quagmire911]

My main hobby is weightlifting, and one of my other interests is rock climbing, which I just started doing again.

Having not been for a while, the biggest thing for ME was forearm endurance. Pinch grip strength/endurance was where I struggled. Rock climbing has a lot to do with forearm strength/endurance and from being back in again MOST of the holds on the harder routes were a matter of pinch grip. Having said that, obviously having a high strength to weight ratio, good upper back strength, and a lower weight, will help out.

Here is a good article on grip training:

http://www.rosstraining.com/articles/trainingthehands.html

The "door grab" and the "fingertip pushup" in particluar, are most relevant to pinch grip.

Hope this helps,

Quagmire

 

[future_strongguy]

How about trying some sandbag training? Lots of cleans with the sandbag + pinching it at the folds = increased back and grip strength.

 

[Quagmire911]

How about trying some sandbag training? Lots of cleans with the sandbag + pinching it at the folds = increased back and grip strength.

In my link

 

[Huffman]

Wow, thanks! I'll definitely add some of those hand exercises to my workout plan.
Gotta get better at pullups too *ugh*

 

[Quagmire911]

What Mr.Positive said is true though.

If you want to get better at rock climbing, then rock climb.

Another good piece of equipment is a fingerboard. Such as:

http://www.bendcrete.com/gallery/Bendcrete Products/fingerboard-L.jpg

http://www.allclimbing.com/images/M...and_developed_by_Ben_Moon-20071003-173631.jpg

There are a lot of variations though.

What is your best climb? Don't know if their is an international system or not.

Good luck.

 

[Kerpal]

Sandbags are awesome. I love mine

 

[Quagmire911]

Sandbags are awesome. I love mine

I intend to get some very soon

 

[Mr.Positive]

Another good piece of equipment is a fingerboard. Such as:

http://www.bendcrete.com/gallery/Bendcrete Products/fingerboard-L.jpg

http://www.allclimbing.com/images/M...and_developed_by_Ben_Moon-20071003-173631.jpg

There are a lot of variations though.

What is your best climb? Don't know if their is an international system or not.

Good luck.

I'll second the use of a fingerboard. It's good training to start going pull-ups using different grips, or just hanging from it is a great finger/grip workout.

Quag, we use the class 5 rating system here.

Here's a good chart of the classes.

http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Grade_(climbing)#The_.E2.80.9Cnew_wave.E2.80.9D_aid_system:

My personal best was a 5.10d on outside rock, a 5c on your system in the UK. It's been awhile since I've climbed. This thread makes me want to get back into it.

 

[Quagmire911]

Cool .

 

[Huffman]

I'm just getting into it right now
Last time I barely managed a 5+, but I think I'm doing pretty well for starters.

Of course I'm going climbing regularly - the exercises are merely meant as a bonus for me, to improve more quickly.

Thanks for your advice!