Bicycles and speed

[ViciousDADogg]

I got a few questions about getting more speed out of my bike. I know, me matters a lot, but as far as bike goes.

I was getting me a kick stand yesterday, I know, but I need it. Very useful and convinient, in my opinion. I talked to this guy who installed it. I asked him if getting a skinnier tire gives me more speed, I have 700x23c, and I was thinking 21 or 19. Skinnier tire, different contact patch, and less roll resistance.

His answer was to get more speed I should reduce weight, such as get carbon figer seat post and handle bars, then reduce drag by installing ceramic bottom bracket and all other bearings.

Is that true? I can get more speed by reducing weight and minimizing drag in drive train?


I thought, that, MAJOR factors that affect speed are aero dynamics and roll risistance of a tire. Aero being a very MAJOR factor when going over 20 miles per hour.


What's the deal?



Here is another question, about how seat front-back position affects my pedaling. I set it all the way back, because that way I'm flatter when on drops, but now I noticed I had trouble going fast. Today I only went 29 mph and it was from a hill, I was 22ish on the flat. I remember I could go 29 on the flat when seat was a bit forward. Does that have any effect at all? Or perhaps I was slow because I did my run on hungry stomatch in the morning?

 

[Fluffy]

what do you ride?

If you are pro reducing weight will give you a competetive edge, otherwise the cost far outweighs any gains you will make, and even then its mainly for climbing

 

[ViciousDADogg]

I got 07 Motobecane Vent Noir. Supposedly 20.4 lbs, but I have Deore XT rear der, bag with tools, pump, two cages and bottoles, and now a kick stand. Still feels like a 20 lb bumbell though. It's light.

here is mine: 1 and 2.. 10 speed shimano 105 shifters, SP41 cable set, and sram chain.


What about seat position?

 

[Francisco d'Anconia]

:crackup: I'm sorry, the post starts with installing a kickstand (which easily doubles as a +10, one handed, melee weapon) and ends with weight concerns on a bike! :crackup:

On a bike, weight definitely matters however, the most immediate gains in speed (and most cost effective) is the weight of the rider. Once the rider is at a healthy weight for the type of riding s/he's doing, the weight of the bike itself comes into play.

 

[ViciousDADogg]

I don't care!!!!!!!!!!! It's convinient!!

Yea, you can run to the nearest tree to park your bike. But what if there are no trees?


It weights about same as one spare tube, I can live with that!


Ok, fvck weight. Your opinions just tell me guy was bsing a bit, so would spend money on parts. What about tires?? Drive train drag? Aerodynamics? And last but not least, freaking seat position????


I know aero plays a big role. The other day I rode against 15 mph wind and was only about 15 mph fast while working hard. But on my way back that wind was to my back, and I rode 27 mph..

 

[Francisco d'Anconia]

I don't care!!!!!!!!!!! It's convinient!!

Yea, you can run to the nearest tree to park your bike. But what if there are no trees?

Actually, all you need is a curb. Put your wheels parallel against the curb and roll back your pedal to rest on top of the curb; instant kick stand.

It weights about same as one spare tube, I can live with that!

A kickstand weighing as much as a tube? What type of tires do you use for a tube that's as heavy as a kickstand?
http://www.jamminproducts.com/Productimages/jp-80009-brickpin-big.jpg

Ok, fvck weight. Your opinions just tell me guy was bsing a bit, so would spend money on parts. What about tires?? Drive train drag? Aerodynamics? And last but not least, freaking seat position????

Doesn't mean a thing if you're carrying even an extra 10 pounds around your waist.

I know aero plays a big role. The other day I rode against 15 mph wind and was only about 15 mph fast while working hard. But on my way back that wind was to my back, and I rode 27 mph..

Lose the weight then work on getting a fast bike. Then you can work on going 27mph into the wind, uphill at that.

 

[ViciousDADogg]

Yes sir. It's as light as one of two tubes I carry in my seat post bag. It's made of alloy alluminum, even screws are alloy. As far as the tires I use, you can see that in the picture. They are regular racing high pressure tires.



27 mph into the wind and up hill won't work! Hill will block the wind.

 

[Francisco d'Anconia]

...27 mph into the wind and up hill won't work! Hill will block the wind.

Downdrafts... We encounter them every April during our 100 mile Ironman. Then there's always the chance of it raining while you are riding uphill into the wind. :nervous:

 

[ViciousDADogg]

Hawaii???

There are two hills around me, one is a draw bridge, the other one is another bridge. The only type of wind is cross wind, or the one that pushes you into back.

Don't get me wrong here. I can easily keep up and out run any biker out there.

Among commuters I'm the fastest. As far as silly racers go, I seen them ride 25, I can do that too. Tour de frace is done at 25.

But yea, my average speed is much lower, at 15.5 today. This is because of some side walk, and stops.

 

[Francisco d'Anconia]

... As far as silly racers go, I seen them ride 25, I can do that too. Tour de frace is done at 25....

That's their average speed over 100+ miles (per stage, 2100+ miles total), you can do that??? With a bike that has a kickstand???

 

[ViciousDADogg]

Yea, average on flat plane. Big deal. 100+ miles not now. But I can see me racing at some future time.


Here is the kicker about why I'm asking about speed. I felt slower as I moved my seat back. BUT. You ready? I'm slower because guy that installed kickstand torqued the skewer so tight my rear wheel won't turn freely as it used too. So I'm feeling slow because I'm dragging.

None the less. I was really pushing it today, with that wheel setup. I was trying to go 25 miles per hour, and I achieved that over a long stretch of road. All I had to do is change my position, get lower to the bike, and spin spin spin. 90 cadence, but whatever.

One thing about riding that fast is that you get towards things faster, especially cars. Cars does not expect you to move that fast, nor they see you. I went this fast before, but today was mighty special. I had two close calls. One was with an SUV that was making a right. He wasn't suppose to let me through because I was blowing a red, he suppose to watch for pedastrians, but then again, I was on the road and going 25 miles per hour. So surely I thought I'll crash into him. I applied brakes, and I don't know wtf I was thinking, I had my left hand on top, not on drops, and braking very slowly. I guess I wanted to not loose momentum and get behind him. But his turn was so slow, and my braking was so slow, I approached really fast at him and had to lean my bike his way and make a turn with him.

That was kind of, not scary, but you sort of know what's going to happen and you're ok with it. Just like when you loose control of your car and are about to crash, same feeling. I keep on going without loosing a breath.

Next light I come across a big utility truck, same thing. I had to turn with him and go across gas station.


If I properly torque skewers, just the way they used to be, I'll be back to normal, faster, ways.

 

[Francisco d'Anconia]

...Here is the kicker about why I'm asking about speed. I felt slower as I moved my seat back. BUT. You ready? I'm slower because guy that installed kickstand torqued the skewer so tight my rear wheel won't turn freely as it used too. ....

:crackup: :crackup: :crackup:
I'd be pissed. Take a look at your brake caliper in back to make sure it your break shoes aren't rubbing against your rim.

None the less. I was really pushing it today, with that wheel setup. I was trying to go 25 miles per hour, and I achieved that over a long stretch of road. All I had to do is change my position, get lower to the bike, and spin spin spin. 90 cadence, but whatever.

Make sure that you're getting a good leg extension through your entire pedal stroke without either rocking or bouncing on your seat. Also, you may think about changing up the gearing on your bike.

...
One thing about riding that fast is that you get towards things faster, especially cars. Cars does not expect you to move that fast, nor they see you. I went this fast before, but today was mighty special. I had two close calls. One was with an SUV that was making a right. He wasn't suppose to let me through because I was blowing a red, he suppose to watch for pedastrians, but then again, I was on the road and going 25 miles per hour.

Please tell me that you're wearing a helmet. Plus, I wouldn't blow through lights without being sure that drivers see you. The only way that I do it is by making sure that I make eye contact with drivers. Also, if you are going to be riding with traffic, act like a car and get out into the lane and don't pass cars on the right when crossing intersections.

...
If I properly torque skewers, just the way they used to be, I'll be back to normal, faster, ways.

Tell me this, what was he doing to your skewers if he was installing a kickstand? Also, if it isn't a rubbing brake you may be having an issue with the bearings in your hub.

 

[ViciousDADogg]

Oh, my legs are as high as possibly can without rocking. I got that setup properly and while back and it made a huge difference.

He took the wheel off for easier installation.


What do you mean by changing gearing? Going less spokets or more? I now have 12-25, and 52/42/30.. I was thinking going to 10 speed or just getting a difference casette, but I'm not sure what gears. Perhaps an 11-28 casette?

 

[Road Demon]

some ideas...

Don't worry about the light parts like carbon post and handlebars, as it just static weight.

Get clipless pedals and stiff-soled cycling shoes, to increase power transfer (ie speedplays x2s)

Your actual position on the bike is more important as most of the power is used to overcome aerodynamic drag of the body, the 'ideal position is low with a flat back,' although most people are unable to do this. Get a fit a perfromance position fit at an pro roadie shop.

Now a streamlined jersey and shorts will smooth out the airflow, making you faster.

Pricey Aero wheels (zipps/trispokes/disc wheels are prehaps the fastest upgrade, as you can save 10-15% power over using 32 spoke standard wheels) A good and cheap option are something like perfromance titan wheels 16F/20 R flat bladed spokes for around 150 a set shipped (performancebike.com) or mavic elites (~350). Sure Zipps are faster but even the cheap flashpoint wheels are 1200 bucks.

Tires. Stay with 700x23C, but put on good grip, fast race tires (michelin pro2 races, pananacer stradius pros both that have low rolling resistance characteristics better than the contintials race tires) with liteweight (70g over 130g) tubes to reduce rotating weight. Tire pressure is important, as most pump too high (check the back of michelin package for the proper inflation for you weight). Rox rim strips are 3g vs 20g velox cloth.

Narrower tires (700x19-20C) have better aero characteristic as less is showing to the wind in terms of frontal area, but have more rolling resistance as compared to wider 700x23-25C tires. 23C will have more grip than the 19/20C around the corner.

 

[Bible_Belt]

http://www.bikemotor.com/mitsubishi bicycle engine.html

Go 40 mph and feel the rumble of two and a half horses.