Orion 2500D Amp, what subs for it?

This is a question for you car audio fanatics.

I have a 2500D Class Orion Amp <link.. And I need to know what subs would POUND the hell out of this amp and everyones houses in my neighborhood.

The Amp pushes 2500w at 1ohm, 1700w at 2 ohms and im looking for dual subs probably at 2 ohms.

Any feedback would be great with pictures or links to the subs.

Price range $500-600

10 or 12 inch SoloX or SPG555 or if you have the money 13W7AE-D1.5

Important thing is quality, and not block pounding ghetto bass. You'll also need a cap. Don't forget to put pair of 3-way in front with an amp, and pair of 3-way 6x9" in back with an amp.

Solo X is sick, but what about 2 Kicker L7's?

fyi I have a 2012 Hyundai Veloster, will I need another alternator or battery?

Veloster <Pic of car

15" L7 is 1000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Which is about what you need for your amp. You can use two 15" L7s @ 2 ohms connected in parallel to form 4 ohm woofer series.

But that's a lot of bass. You only need about 250 watts to shake your car and make people stare.

Try to just get a cap for your amp, and then upgrade car power system according to need. If lights dim get a bigger alternator.

Personally I'd sell that mono amp and get a 4 channel. 2 channels to run a 500 - 1000 watt sub, and the other two for rear 3-way 6x9 speakers. Then I'd get a two channel amp for front speakers. Plus two caps for front and rear amps. Top that with a boss in-dash flip out dvd player, and trunk mounted cd changer.

backseatjuan said:

15" L7 is 1000 watts RMS @ 4 ohms. Which is about what you need for your amp. You can use two 15" L7s @ 2 ohms connected in parallel to form 4 ohm woofer series.

But that's a lot of bass. You only need about 250 watts to shake your car and make people stare.

Try to just get a cap for your amp, and then upgrade car power system according to need. If lights dim get a bigger alternator.

Personally I'd sell that mono amp and get a 4 channel. 2 channels to run a 500 - 1000 watt sub, and the other two for rear 3-way 6x9 speakers. Then I'd get a two channel amp for front speakers. Plus two caps for front and rear amps. Top that with a boss in-dash flip out dvd player, and trunk mounted cd changer.

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What about 2 - 12" L7's? How much would you sell the Orion amp for?

backseatjuan said:

and pair of 3-way 6x9" in back with an amp.

Click to expand...

When you go to a concert, do you sit with your back to the stage? No, you face the music. Car audio is supposed to be the same way. Bass is non-directional. That means if you were blindfolded and put into a room with a speaker pounding pure bass, you would not be able to point at the speaker, regardless of its volume. (It's true; I've tried it.) In contrast, mid and high range is directional, so those speakers go to the front and sides. When they are in the back, the sound hits your ears just a moment later than from the front speakers, creating an echo.

If you don't have a system that will speed up the bass signal in the rear speakers just a bit, the bass will be just a little bit behind, but that it is not nearly as noticeable as with higher tones. I've had EQs before that had me input the distance from each speaker to my head, and then it timed the moment that each one hit so that the sound would arrive at exactly the same time.

And yes, factory stereo systems have 6x9s in the back. But they have also always sucked, too, because people just don't know any better. They think the number of speakers is the best indication of sound quality.

@ bible


Let's take a crown victoria. Rear speakers are under the rear window, facing up. Is that bad? How to correct that?

Also, how unique whips position their speakers?

And lastly what you think of boss subs and speakers?

Let's take a crown victoria. Rear speakers are under the rear window, facing up. Is that bad? How to correct that?

Unhook them. That'll fix 'em. Then sell them to someone who doesn't know any better.

Rip out everything factory and start over. You want a component audio speaker setup up front, like this one: http://www.amazon.com/Boston-Acoust...6BLY/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1329928858&sr=8-1 Typically, the midrange speaker goes in the door and the tweeter goes in the dash, just because it's easiest. Especially with the little dome tweeters, you can mount them almost anywhere. Run caps in the wiring to filter out the bass, so that your door doesn't rattle. A bass drum thump is ok in a door, but anything lower will make it rattle.

Then your sub goes in the back. Wire it so that it only gets the lower tones, either with caps or through the settings on your amp & head unit. If you have a cheap ghetto sub box that has tweeters embedded in the box, unhook them.

As for brands, I have been out of things for a while. I'm sure there are a lot of decent brands. I like Boston Acoustics for components. The are a lot of good brands for subs, like Infinity, JL Audio, and MB Quart. I used to think Kicker sucked, but they improved their quality a lot in later years. I have two kicker 12's that I'm sure would make me go deaf if I cranked them too much. A rule of thumb for quality of a subwoofer is the size of the magnet. A $20 ghetto 12" sub will have a magnet that is smaller than a hockey puck; my $200 sub has a magnet that's closer in size to a dinner plate.

The size and quality of the sub box will be a factor in the quality of the sound, too. Often they are custom-built to match the shape of the vehicle's trunk or hatch. Your crown Vic uses the trunk as the box for the 6x9s. That's why they sound like they have bass. If you build your own box, use 'medium density fiberboard,' and buy the sub first, so that you can research what the manufacturer suggests for box size. If you don't want to build a box, buy a "free-air" subwoofer and mount it behind the rear seats in the trunk.

So what if I put those 6x9s into rear doors?

It's the same problem. The sound is still behind you. You could in theory mount them in the front doors, but they are a little too big to be practical. Most factory mounts in doors are for 5 or 6" round speakers.

6x9s are typically used in factory units that don't have a sub. When you get to the point of having a separate sub, you don't need a speaker as big as a 6x9 to make midrange. A 6" round speaker is plenty big. My advice would be to ditch the 6x9s.

Not to break up your conversation but you could take care of your business in a PM.